On July 29, 2020 Jacques Dresang of “Kent-ish The Formula Ford Podcast” Interviewed Perter Hampsheir the designer of the Elden Marque. Take a listen to:
https://kentish.podbean.com/e/episode-10-peter-hampsheir/
Follow along with “Kent-ish The Formula Ford Podcast” for other interesting interviews.
Permission granted by Jacques Dresang for the link.
I seem to procrastinate on updating this page.
Recap 2019
We raced AM74-5 most of the year at local races, Colorado and New Mexico. In August we took AM73-79 to High Plains Raceway in Colorado. When the Petronox unit failed in 74-5 we rolled out AM73-79 for its first away race. The car did reasonably well. The handling of 74-5 is more unforgiving. It seemed that the shocks maybe setup wrong or the bump steer is off. The car was skittish under bumps. Also corner exit understeer was more than I was expecting. This was the first real test of the car and over the winter will research shocks packages and recheck the bump steer.
Big news! The Hewland gearbox that was lost in late 2018 resurfaced in November 2019. It landed in Laredo Texas in a warehouse handling shipments into Mexico. It had been switched with another pallet and sat there unclaimed for 9 months. An employee in Mexico sent an e-mail to me and the warehouse stating the error and to arrange to contact me. Over a few weeks I verified the freight was correct and had negotiate a storage rate less than the $5/day for a total of nearly $1500. Eventually they agreed to a reduced rate and I shipped it back to me. So now I have the original gearbox for AM74-5 back in the shop. It still needs rebuild but that will wait.
Winter of 2019 we began the normal winter checks of the chassis, engines and gearboxes. AM74-5 was found to have a small crack in a rear bulkhead. I have raced this car for 6 years and even when I bought it I didn’t crack check it. So I have decide to go down to the frame and refresh completely.
Last summer I had the frame of AM73-74 sandblasted a and bonded a new floor. I am nearing completion of the restoration of this chassis. I moved the new engine from AM74-5 to -74 and installed a fresh rebuilt gearbox. AM73-74 was a MK10C originally and have decided to convert to a MK10B, front radiator with full engine covers and long tail. Goal is to finish this chassis by June 2020 for testing possible race near the end of the year.
Activities for 2020 include races in New Mexico, and Colorado. I have penciled in SVRA Indy and Mid-Ohio but need to ensure Am73-79 is handling better.
My shop has a very non-level floor, 3/4″ drop in 8′ in various places So I built some scale holders that have leveling feet. Each leveling pad is made up of 1 1/2″ angle iron I had around the shop. I welded a tube on each corner that is threaded for 3/8″ leveling pad. One half of the assembly has 3/4″ plywood with 2″ high density foam as a resting pad when you want the car off the scales. The other half is for the 15″x15″ scale pad which is used for all measurements.
I then laid out on the shop floor the wheelbase/track of the Elden and marked the floor for the leveling pads. Took a large level and established level on the Left Front Scale Pad and projected that level across the other corners. Put a small level on each pad and iterated leveling the pad to it’s self and its other pads until all pads are level to themselves and all others. Marked floor for future use.
One issue I had as I began to use this setup pad was that each pad assembly would move each time the chassis was lifted, the camber change would move the pads sideways. Also I didn’t have a good point to measure and set the ride height. So I added a cross brace to the pads and that eliminated lateral movement and reliable place for ride height. Not gorgeous but cheaper than a full setup pad.
I grew tired of trying to align the Elden’s with the various wheel/tire combinations I have. So I decided to build my own wheel/hub stands.. Took a 1/2″ plate Al 6061, 3″ Aluminum 6061 angle and 4 casters to build my hub stands.
I drilled various holes to allow the wheel center line to move in 1/2″ increments to simulate the various wheel diameters I may encounter. The hub stand eliminates the wheel/rim and sets on the scale pads. This allows setting ride height, castor/camber and toe much easier. On the center line of the hub stand is a 12″ bar I use to establish toe of the wheel.
Another problem I had was trying to locate the chassis center line and setting the track at that center line. Once I found the center line by measuring many different points of the chassis pickup points and using the drawings found earlier.
Then made a permanent mark on the top chassis front/rear. I then took a 6 ft level-attached a 6 ft tape measure on the top of the level, and installed a pointer on the level at 3ft to indicate the center line mark on the chassis. I then spanned the level across the wheel/hub stands to measure the track. Using plumb bobs at the end of the level equidistant from the center line, adjusted the a-arms. This is difficult on the front, as the a-arms have a very narrow range to use and I found a pickup point had been bent. The rear this was much easier to establish.
For more details on how I make this all work please write me a note and I will try to elaborate more.
Morning to all,
Thought I would take a few minutes to catch up where we are in the winter work on the Elden’s,
Elden #1, AM 74-5, is on the alignment rack, home made, to confirm last years setting and upgrade my measurement capabilities. Below is a picture of my alignment setup. My garage floor is not even close to flat, 3/4″ slope in 8′ in places. So I took my Scale pads and built a pad holders with a roll off area behind the scale pad.
I also built my own hub stands to get the wheel assembly out of the way and allow a much more accurate surface to measure off of.
I also broke down and bought some Suspension Geometry Software to help me understand the Elden suspension design. I have chased under-steer all of my time with this car. Some of the issue is my driving style and maybe the shocks are not in the correct range. (shocks were valved for a higher spring rate than we are using now).
After conversing with MK8 Motorsports in UK, https://www.mk8motorsport.com/, I have begun to follow their guidance on setup. This required a softer spring package than I was using and maybe the pickup points on the lower a-arms was incorrect. So with the software I hope to get some Roll Center numbers, camber change etc.
The hard part of the suspension geometry software is accurately is inputting 3-D coordinates for all the pickup points. So working on tools to aid in those measurements.
Elden #2, AM 73-39, was found to a have a severely bent frame. That frame in is Colorado Springs with Tom B. to straighten. Hope to have back in late February. Then we will start over building it with all clean, polished etc parts. This will take most of 2018.
Elden #3, AM 73-79, has its new side radiators from Ron Davis Radiators in Phoenix, AZ. It was a big challenged to plumb the radiator cross over piping and trying to ensure the driver is safe. The radiator shrouds were from this car many years ago and were a challenge to fit. Also with the cross over piping in the drivers compartment, the body parts and suspension are a bit more trouble to deal with than the front radiator cars. So allot of planning and cussing takes place to fit everything. I believe we are complete.
Next with Elden #3 is to fit the front suspension, order shocks, etc. The end maybe in sight!
Elden #4, AM 73-74, waits in the trailer for its time in the shop. Unfortunately we have borrowed a few parts to further the other sisters completion. One of the things we have had trouble with is front uprights. In talking with MK8 Motorsports, they are now building Elden parts and have listings on their web site; https://www.mk8motorsport.com/elden-parts
I have sent them 3 damaged front uprights from my spares and they will attempt to repair or build new. Give them a shout.
Will update the suspension work later.
Enjoy the Super Bowl Sunday!
June of this year year we entered the Falconer bodied Elden FF, AM74-5, in the SVRA Open Wheel World Challenge at the famed Indianapolis 500 Road Course. I heard there were 350 open wheel cars entered and by looking at the drivers meeting in the media center I would believe it. There were FV’s to F1 cars. Pro series and amateur entrants. I met a few folks driving F Jr’s from Australia and New Zealand. Cool!
Here is a picture of me in “027” on the grid in Gasoline Alley.
We came well prepared and had minimal problems with the car. But when we left NM we knew that the under-steer in the car was still to be worked out. We are running 300 lb/in springs front and rear. We have been advised to go to 275 Fronts and 250 or softer in the rear. Upon getting home we will order those springs and see if it helps. Note for History, Elden #4 AM73-74 springs were 225# front and 180# rears. They appear to be original. So during the races I fought some under-steer in the high speed corners. So I took my time to ensure not to interfere with anyone of the faster guys.
Also I guessed at the gears and 4th was okay but 1-3 were to low and was unable to use effectively, so left allot of time on the table. I was so consumed on trying to drive, I decided not to chase gears. But I have a better idea from other competitors what should be in the Hewland for next time.
So here is a video of the last race.
Next race is High Plains Raceway end of July.
Larry
I was looking back at some old files and found this article from “RACECAR” from May 1979″.
This link is to the whole article describing Formula Fords built from the mid-60’s to 1979.
Charting the Fords-FF general info
What is most interesting to me is the Elden Formula Ford part of the article. The following link is the only place I have seen the where the 4 models of the PH10 are described relative to the radiator placements:
1972-73 PH10 with single front radiator similar to the PH8
1973 PH10A is a PH10 with the “Falconer” body with twin front radiators.
1974 PH10B is a twin side radiator layout with the radiators directly behind the front suspension
1975 PH10C is a twin side radiator layout with the radiators moved alongside the roll hoop
In talking with Peter Hampsheir he indicated that many of the PH10B and C’s were converted to the front radiator design (PH8 and 10). But what I am listing here is just some info I don’t want to lose. If anyone has more info please share your info.
When I got the first two Elden FF’s from South Carolina, the following documents were part of the files that came with the car. They maybe of interest to others as it was to me.
First are two ads published in the SCCA “SportsCar” magazine, of July 1989. On the top was an ad for Elden Racing Cars for their new PH 27 Formula Ford. Also in the same edition of “SportsCar”was an ad for the Elden Register, USA; a publication put together by Paul Pfanner and Steve Nickless. 
Secondly, is Issue 1 March 1989 of “the elden register, u.s.a” published by Paul Pfanner and Steve Nickless for “American Elden Owners and others interested in the marque.”
Elden Register USA letter to owner
Elden Register Issue 1 March 1989
Inside this issue of the “elden register, u.s.a.” was an reprint of a “Sales Brochure from the EldenPH-8, Published by Tom Pumpelly’s NTW Racers Store in 1972”. This contains allot of information on the original specifications of the PH-8 as it was imported to the USA.
Also included in “elden register, u.s.a” Issue 1 was an advertisement for the new Elden PRH27 F.F.1600;
This is very good reading and is located here ensure Elden history is maintained. If someone has other docs we want to maintain, please send them to me and I will add them.
Since I use allot of numbers, etc describing the Elden FF’s in my shop, so I created an index:
#1 1974 Elden MK10C (re bodied to Falconer) AM 74 5; currently racing, came from South Carolina
#2 1973 Elden MK8 AM 73-39 currently running Solo events, came from South Carolina
#3 1973 Elden MK10B AM 73-79 waiting for restoration, came from Tulsa Oklahoma
#4 1973 Elden MK10B AM 73-74, waiting for restoration, came from Cleveland Ohio
The winter has been spent doing everything but working on the race cars. Now that that is done lets see what the list is for the cars:
Mk-10, sent the carburetor to Curtis Farley to have rebuilt, jetted and perform the magic that he does. He will run the rebuilt carb on the engine dyno to set jetting. Bilstein shocks are finally rebuilt and will be ready install. Need to order new tires, American Racers for the 2014 season. Time to nut and bolt everything, realign with the new shocks and set corner weights.
MK8, I am fabricating Al side panels to go along the chassis to ensure that debris, or hot coolant doesn’t find its way into my cockpit. This came to light from Bill D in Grand Junction, CO when he had an accident that damaged the coolant lines that run alongside the chassis mid height. He moved his to lower on the chassis and I decide to put a light Al panel to minimize the risk. Will add some pictures later. The engine for this car is done and awaits installation. Need to get new bearings for the MK9 transaxle. Several of those bearings are old needle bearings and newer ones are ball. Taylor Engineering to help. I have 2 Bilstein shocks rebuilt for this car. Still need to more for the front. Currently old Armstrongs are there and I would like to replace.
Another task that is taking more time is finding some longer 3/8-24″ wheel studs for the front and rear. The fronts are Triumph Spitfire and they are a bit short when using the Revolution alloy wheels and their sleeve nuts. The 3/8″ studs are pretty much a dinosaur in favor or 7/16 or M12 wheel studs. But since I have 3 sets of revolutions and spent the money to true them up I want to stay with the 3/8″ studs. I have scoured the forums like “www.apexspeed.com” and think I have found a source in the UK. When that is confirmed I will post that info.
So that is it for now and off to the shop.
Good evening.
Sitting here watching the Daytona 500. Glad to see no one is hurt. Pretty amazing.
Anyway the oil pump is headed back from Farley Engines and the Fuel Cell has shipped from Harmon Racing Cells.
Curtis Farley has encouraged me to change the oil suction(scavenge) line to AN 10 from 8’s. Will require a change to the oil tank and the dry sump pan. Will take to HamFab in Edgewood, NM.
The Fuel cell pictures will post this weekend once I get it. I will show pictures of the cell on the bench and also in the car. Look forward to that.
Anyone know what stub axles we use on the MK10C? It appears mine are wore and the rotor doesn’t always center when the big nut is torqued on inducing run out. HamFab checked the rotors and they are within 0.005″ run out. May need to replace or come up with an alternative plan.
LCH Restorations 