Update May 15, A late start to the season

Thought I would catch up with all the going ons of this winter.

Last winter I decided to take the blue 027, AM74-5 apart for refurbishment.  The original Farley engine was 4 years old and starting to show loss of compression and leak down.  Since Curtis has retired from the business I move to a local Colorado engine guy, Pete Christensen of Total Precision Engines, http://www.totalprecisionengines.com.

We decided on a new block and rods and pistons.  Total rebuild looks good on the dyno!

At the same time I shipped the engine I crated up the Hewland to go to Taylor Race Engineering.  Handed off the crate to the trucking company here in Santa Fe and on the way to El Paso to transfer trucking companies, the crate was LOST.  What?  How do you lose a 100 pound black tool box in 50-75 miles?  Learned a valuable lesson.  Insure your freight.  I didn’t insure and the trucking company was willing to settle the loss for 10 cents/pound!   Lots of phone calls etc.  Finally issue was resolved when Vice-Pesident of company admitted they lost and we settled on a value of a used Hewland gearbox.

I was able to take a spare Hewland and ordered the stub axles to convert it from cv’s to donuts.  Also that box was a 5 speed and I changed out the lay shaft to a 4 speed.

All of this took and incredible amount of time waiting for parts etc. I probably wasted to much time waiting for the trucking company to resolve the loss/claim.  Anyway May 8 the blue Elden was at Sandia Speedway for its first shakedown.  Mostly everything was okay but a nagging handling problem needs to be addressed.

Red Elden #53, AM 73-79 ran in a solo event last October.  When we unloaded it from the trailer found a broken rear stub axle.  The Hillman Imp axles are very weak.  So I went on a search for an upgraded solution.  The Lotus Europa uses the same axles and several ideas have been used.  Couldn’t find a supplier.  Finally found a sastisfactory replacement.  Still need a long term solution.

In the last solo event the engine would bog badly at launch.  Found timing way off.  At the first race the engine seemed weak.  I bought this as used low time engine.  But to make the story short, wrong jets in carb, timing off, # 2 cylinder down on compression and leak down on # 2 -18%!   Other cylinders at 1-2% leak down.  So sending the head to Total Precision Engines for a head rebuild.

So we are now waiting for engine parts.  Trying to evaluate the shift mechanism.  Went back through the u-joints and eliminated all slop.  But the shift 1st to 2nd is almost 2 1/2″ throw.  The rotation from 2nd to 3rd is nearly 3″.   My Van Dieman FC the throw is 1″ and rotation is approx 1 1/2″   So I’m looking to change if possible.

Next race is Sandia Speedway with SWMS, http://www.swms.org, June 1-2 and immediately June 8-9 at Pueblo Motorsports Park with RMVR, http://www.rmvr.com.  Goal is to take 2 cars to each race.

Will update after the June races.

 

 

1973 Elden MK10C First Day at Track!

Firts track day 2018

Today we got AM73-79 out to Sandia Motor Speedway in Albuquerque, NM for its initial outing following restoration.

We got this car from Tim H in Tulsa, OK back in 2013.  Jay Davis a previous owner of this car actually stopped and saw the car several years ago and helped with its history.

I ordered a new body from Marchant and Cox, minus the radiator shrouds.  Car ran good.  I’m worried about those small aluminum radiators in our heat and dry air.  It was 90+ degrees out and I limited rpm’s to 5500 and water temps sat at 90 deg C  and oil was 90 deg C.  So there is hope?

I changed the location of the shifter down an inch and it seems much more comfortable. Can’t wait to try AM74-5 (Falconer bodied) which has the same change.  Change was necessary as the sheet metal plate that holds the front end of the shift rod at the bulkhead was severely cracked  allowing excess movement.

So now into the shop for inspection and getting it ready for some solo work the rest of the year.  Maybe track time if things work out.

Larry

 

Elden Personal Registry

Here is my compilation of Elden’s I have found and communicated with owners, or found in various open forums.  This is a living document and if there are updates, errors, pictures, more info I will gladly include.  I am trying to figure out how to link the many pictures I have of the various cars. So please help me share this info.

Note: Peter Hampsheir maintains the “Official Elden Register”.  I will share info with Peter with your permission.

Elden Register by Me (version 1) (version 1).xlsb

 

 

 

Personal Elden Register

Since I bought my first two Elden’s I have taken allot of time to find other Elden owners. past or present.  I have collected that data by personal contact, open forums and referrals.

Peter Hampsheir maintains the Official Elden Registry and works very hard to preserve the history of the marque and wants to ensure no one creates new chassis without his knowledge.  I work hand in hand with Peter to keep track of mainly the US cars and share data with him regularly.

If you want to add info to this Elden Register, please contact through the site.  I will work with you to find the chassis # and correlate known history of the chassis to verify its authenticity in conjunction with Peter.  I would then request permission to add your car to both my personal register and Peter Hampsheir’s “Official Elden Registry”.  No personal data is included in this register and only be released with your permission.

In a few days I will provide a .pdf link to this register on this site after I update data just received.  Look back every so often for updates.

Larry

The question has come up on where to find the chassis #.  On most Elden’s it is on the rear bulkhead right side or maybe left.  Here is a picture of my chassis #:

MK10 Farme # annotated

Aligning the Elden FF tools etc.

My shop has a very non-level floor, 3/4″ drop in 8′ in various places  So I built some scale holders that have leveling feet.  Each leveling pad is made up of 1 1/2″ angle iron I had around the shop.  I welded a tube on each corner that is threaded for 3/8″ leveling pad.  One half of the assembly has 3/4″ plywood with 2″ high density foam as a resting pad when you want the car off the scales.  The other half is for the 15″x15″ scale pad which is used for all measurements.

I then laid out on the shop floor the wheelbase/track of the Elden and marked the floor for the leveling pads.  Took a large level and established level on the Left Front Scale Pad and projected that level across the other corners.  Put a small level on each pad and iterated leveling the pad to it’s self and its other pads until all pads are level to themselves and all others.  Marked floor for future use.

One issue I had as I began to use this setup pad was that each pad assembly would move each time the chassis was lifted, the camber change would move the pads sideways.  Also I didn’t have a good point to measure and set the ride height.  So I added a cross brace to the pads and that eliminated lateral movement and reliable place for ride height.  Not gorgeous but cheaper than a full setup pad.

 

 

 

 

I grew tired of trying to align the Elden’s with the various wheel/tire combinations I have.  So I decided to build my own wheel/hub stands..  Took a 1/2″ plate Al 6061, 3″ Aluminum 6061 angle and 4 casters to build my hub stands.

 

I drilled various holes to allow the wheel center line to move in 1/2″ increments to simulate the various wheel diameters I may encounter.  The hub stand eliminates the wheel/rim and sets on the scale pads.  This allows setting ride height, castor/camber and toe much easier. On the center line of the hub stand is a 12″ bar I use to establish toe of the wheel.

Another problem I had was trying to locate the chassis center line and setting the track at that center line. Once I found the center line by measuring many different points of the chassis pickup points and using the drawings found earlier.

Elden FF Chasis Drawing

Then made a permanent mark on the top chassis front/rear.  I then took a 6 ft level-attached a 6 ft tape measure on the top of the level, and installed a pointer on the level at 3ft to indicate the center line mark on the chassis.  I then spanned the level across the wheel/hub stands to measure the track.  Using plumb bobs at the end of the level equidistant from the center line, adjusted the a-arms. This is difficult on the front, as the a-arms have a very narrow range to use and I found a pickup point had been bent.  The rear this was much easier to establish.

For more details on how I make this all work please write me a note and I will try to elaborate more.

 

Feb 2018 Update

Morning to all,

Thought I would take a few minutes to catch up where we are in the winter work on the Elden’s,

Elden #1,  AM 74-5,  is on the alignment rack, home made, to confirm last years setting and upgrade my measurement capabilities.  Below is a picture of my alignment setup.  My garage floor is not even close to flat, 3/4″ slope in 8′ in places.  So I took my Scale pads and built a pad holders with a roll off area behind the scale pad.

Shop alignment setupI also built my own hub stands to get the wheel assembly out of the way and allow a much more accurate surface to measure off of.

IMG_0948

I also broke down and bought some Suspension Geometry Software to help me understand the Elden suspension design.  I have chased under-steer all of my time  with this car.  Some of the issue is my driving style and maybe the shocks are not in the correct range. (shocks were valved for a higher spring rate than we are using now).

After conversing with MK8 Motorsports in UK, https://www.mk8motorsport.com/, I have begun to follow their guidance on setup.  This required a softer spring package than I was using and maybe the pickup points on the lower a-arms was incorrect.  So with the software I hope to get some Roll Center numbers, camber change  etc.

The hard part of the suspension geometry software is accurately is inputting 3-D coordinates for all the pickup points.  So working on tools to aid in those measurements.

 

Elden #2, AM 73-39, was found to a have a severely bent frame. That frame in is Colorado Springs with Tom B. to straighten.  Hope to have back in late February.  Then we will start over building it with all clean, polished etc parts. This will take most of 2018.

Elden #3, AM 73-79, has its new side radiators from Ron Davis Radiators in Phoenix, AZ.  It was a big challenged to plumb the radiator cross over piping and trying to ensure the driver is safe.  The radiator shrouds were from this car many years ago and were a challenge to fit.  Also with the cross over piping in the drivers compartment, the body parts and suspension are a bit more trouble to deal with than the front radiator cars.  So allot of planning and cussing takes place to fit everything.  I believe we are complete.

Next with Elden #3 is to  fit the front suspension, order shocks, etc.  The end maybe in sight!

Elden #4, AM 73-74, waits in the trailer for its time in the shop.  Unfortunately we have borrowed a few parts to further the other sisters completion.  One of the things we have had trouble with is front uprights.  In talking with MK8 Motorsports, they are now building Elden parts and have listings on their web site; https://www.mk8motorsport.com/elden-parts

I have sent them 3 damaged front uprights from my spares and they will attempt to repair or build new.  Give them a shout.

Will update the suspension work later.

Enjoy the Super Bowl Sunday!

Adding the Subaru Waterpump to Crosley Engine

Had seen others talk about swapping the original generator driven water pump with a 1980 Subaru Brat 1.6L pump.  That eliminates the generator which for an H-Mod isn’t entirely necessary.  On my engine I had scored a generator eliminator jack shaft.  But still wanted to eliminate the Crosley water pump.

I had seen instructions on the web and some preliminary drawings but until I started turning metal did I fully understand the process.

Parts List

1980 Subaru Brat 1.6L water pump Bech and Arnley #   Picture of pump

Champion 400A pulley- Tractor supply or most hardware stores

6 ea 6-32-1/2″ socket screws

5 ea 1/4-28-xxx hex head bolts and lock nuts/washers

3 ea 5/16-18-5/8″socket head or hex bolt/ washers

3″x2″-1/4″thickness-3 ” long Aluminum angle stock

First was to take the Champion 400A pulley and turn the center out of the pulley to allow its flat back face to attach to the front of the Subaru pulley front.

For my pump the diameter of the Champion 400A to fit the pump was 2.015″.  Faced the pulley to ensure flat mating surfaces.

Then Turned the back half of the Subaru water pump off to eliminate the unnecessary material.  I turned down to the pulley bottom.  Beware I turned this on the lath by holding the water pump body still, using dead center on the impeller shaft and turning off the pulley.  The pulley is cast steel and very soft in my situation.  “TAKE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS”

 

 

Next determine a bolt circle on the inside of the “Champion 400A Modified” pulley and the Subaru pulley to allow 6ea 6-32 by 1/2″ socket head crews to be drilled thru the Champion 400 A pulley and taped into the modified Subaru pulley.  For my application that was 2.45″diameter.

Next fabricated from 4″x4″ by 1/4″ thick Aluminum plate a backing plate for the water pump.  For my application I used 1 1/4″ diameter tube as the outlet to the Crosley engine.

 

I haven’t finished this yet so decided to publish interim steps.  Will edit once installed into SIAM.

Larry