About LCH Restoration

I restore and race Elden FF's. I solo and road race in vintage racing. I also have collected as much info on the Elden Marque as I can and work with Peter Hampsheir to further the official "Elden Registry" in the UK

Subaru-Brat Water Pump Sketch’s

After finishing the installation of the Subaru-Brat water pump on my H-Mod, SIAM-Fibersport, I was asked for the sketches I used to fabricate. So I went on a massive hunt on where I got these sketches and best I can figure was a 2007 Post in the now defunct Yahoo Groups H-Mod forum that Nat Sherrill, Marty Stein and others managed. Best I can tell is that Marty and Franklin Rudolph were involved in posting these sketches. If I learn otherwise I will correct.

So along with pictures of my installation on here are the sketches I used.

Good luck and share your completed photos.

———-Reprint——-“Retrofitting an Austin Healy Sprite Clutch in a Crosley”

In my quest to upgrade the SIAM with a newer gearbox, the Sprite Ribcage Transmission, I came across this article in the “Tin Block Times”. Tim Foster gave permission to post this article for others that maybe interested in doing this for Crosley or Crosley powered H-Mod.

Originally published in the “Tin Block Times ” Volume 1, No. 1 Winter of 1986 author Dr. Bob Graham and additional info added by Glen Brynsvold after he completed his upgrade to the Crosley-Scorpion

SIAM Update


It has been a few years since real work on the SIAM was done. The Elden’s keep the shop busy but with this pandemic and waiting for some racing parts I decided the catch up some SIAM work.

First I rebuilt the the Crosley Steering box with new bushings and seals from Service Motors, https://www.servicemotors.net/. Then I tackled the fun job of the Crosley front axle King Pins. The King pins required some tooling to allow reaming to fit and maintaining the alignment of the top and bottom. So I built this reamer tool.

5/8″ Adjustable Reamer with Extension

A project I started December 2017 was to convert to a Subaru Brat water pump. I had previously made the pulley, https://lchrestoration.com/category/1954-h-mod-siam/. Now I needed to make a bracket to hold the pump and complete the plumbing.

Subaru Brat Water Pump Bracket

The complete installation:

Subaru Brat water pump installed and back plate fabricated.

Finally, I reinstalled the Crosley front axle. The SIAM is right hand drive and as such the front axle is turned around 180 degrees. That in itself sees to be okay. But I found that the front friction lever shocks were binding up the front leaf springs. So I built a new mounting system allowing the lever shock to move without binding. Wish I had taken a picture of the original but here is the new.

Another thing found was that castor seems off with reversing the axle. Will update this later as the work isn’t done. The following picture shows a castor adjustor on the Crosley Fibersport waiting for restoration here. What is weird it is on the top of the leaf spring and I’m not convinced that it actually adjusts. I would think it belongs on the bottom of the leaf spring. Once the wheels are back on the ground I can confirm all of this.

Crosley front axle castor adjustor?

Will update soon the castor resolution soon.

Jaques Dresang interview of Peter Hampsheir

On July 29, 2020 Jacques Dresang of “Kent-ish The Formula Ford Podcast” Interviewed Perter Hampsheir the designer of the Elden Marque. Take a listen to:


Follow along with “Kent-ish The Formula Ford Podcast” for other interesting interviews. 

Permission granted by Jacques Dresang for the link.

2020 is a New Year. Let’s go Racing

I seem to procrastinate on updating this page.

Recap 2019

We raced AM74-5 most of the year at local races, Colorado and New Mexico.  In August we took AM73-79 to High Plains Raceway in Colorado.  When the Petronox unit failed in 74-5 we rolled out AM73-79 for its first away race.  The car did reasonably well. The handling of 74-5 is more unforgiving.  It seemed that the shocks maybe setup wrong or the bump steer is off.  The car was skittish under bumps.  Also corner exit understeer was more than I was expecting.  This was the first real test of the car and over the winter will research shocks packages and recheck the bump steer.

Big news!  The   Hewland gearbox that was lost in late 2018 resurfaced in November 2019.  It landed in Laredo Texas in a warehouse handling shipments into Mexico.  It had been switched with another pallet and sat there unclaimed for 9 months.  An employee in Mexico sent an e-mail to me and the warehouse stating the error and to arrange to contact me.  Over a few weeks I verified the freight was correct and had negotiate a storage rate less than the $5/day for a total of nearly $1500.  Eventually they agreed to a reduced rate and I shipped it back to me.  So now I have the original gearbox for AM74-5 back in the shop.  It still needs rebuild but that will wait.

Winter of 2019 we began the normal winter checks of the chassis, engines and gearboxes. AM74-5 was found to have a small crack in a rear bulkhead. I have raced this car for 6 years and even when I bought it I didn’t crack check it.  So I have decide to go down to the frame and refresh completely.

Last summer I had the frame of AM73-74 sandblasted a and bonded a new floor.  I am nearing completion of the restoration of this chassis.  I moved the new engine from AM74-5 to -74 and installed a fresh rebuilt gearbox.  AM73-74 was a MK10C originally and have decided to convert to a MK10B, front radiator with full engine covers and long tail.  Goal is to finish this chassis by June 2020 for testing possible race near the end of the year.

Activities for 2020 include races in New Mexico, and Colorado.  I have penciled in SVRA Indy and Mid-Ohio but need to ensure Am73-79 is handling better.




Update May 15, A late start to the season

Thought I would catch up with all the going ons of this winter.

Last winter I decided to take the blue 027, AM74-5 apart for refurbishment.  The original Farley engine was 4 years old and starting to show loss of compression and leak down.  Since Curtis has retired from the business I move to a local Colorado engine guy, Pete Christensen of Total Precision Engines, http://www.totalprecisionengines.com.

We decided on a new block and rods and pistons.  Total rebuild looks good on the dyno!

At the same time I shipped the engine I crated up the Hewland to go to Taylor Race Engineering.  Handed off the crate to the trucking company here in Santa Fe and on the way to El Paso to transfer trucking companies, the crate was LOST.  What?  How do you lose a 100 pound black tool box in 50-75 miles?  Learned a valuable lesson.  Insure your freight.  I didn’t insure and the trucking company was willing to settle the loss for 10 cents/pound!   Lots of phone calls etc.  Finally issue was resolved when Vice-Pesident of company admitted they lost and we settled on a value of a used Hewland gearbox.

I was able to take a spare Hewland and ordered the stub axles to convert it from cv’s to donuts.  Also that box was a 5 speed and I changed out the lay shaft to a 4 speed.

All of this took and incredible amount of time waiting for parts etc. I probably wasted to much time waiting for the trucking company to resolve the loss/claim.  Anyway May 8 the blue Elden was at Sandia Speedway for its first shakedown.  Mostly everything was okay but a nagging handling problem needs to be addressed.

Red Elden #53, AM 73-79 ran in a solo event last October.  When we unloaded it from the trailer found a broken rear stub axle.  The Hillman Imp axles are very weak.  So I went on a search for an upgraded solution.  The Lotus Europa uses the same axles and several ideas have been used.  Couldn’t find a supplier.  Finally found a sastisfactory replacement.  Still need a long term solution.

In the last solo event the engine would bog badly at launch.  Found timing way off.  At the first race the engine seemed weak.  I bought this as used low time engine.  But to make the story short, wrong jets in carb, timing off, # 2 cylinder down on compression and leak down on # 2 -18%!   Other cylinders at 1-2% leak down.  So sending the head to Total Precision Engines for a head rebuild.

So we are now waiting for engine parts.  Trying to evaluate the shift mechanism.  Went back through the u-joints and eliminated all slop.  But the shift 1st to 2nd is almost 2 1/2″ throw.  The rotation from 2nd to 3rd is nearly 3″.   My Van Dieman FC the throw is 1″ and rotation is approx 1 1/2″   So I’m looking to change if possible.

Next race is Sandia Speedway with SWMS, http://www.swms.org, June 1-2 and immediately June 8-9 at Pueblo Motorsports Park with RMVR, http://www.rmvr.com.  Goal is to take 2 cars to each race.

Will update after the June races.



1973 Elden MK10C First Day at Track!

Firts track day 2018

Today we got AM73-79 out to Sandia Motor Speedway in Albuquerque, NM for its initial outing following restoration.

We got this car from Tim H in Tulsa, OK back in 2013.  Jay Davis a previous owner of this car actually stopped and saw the car several years ago and helped with its history.

I ordered a new body from Marchant and Cox, minus the radiator shrouds.  Car ran good.  I’m worried about those small aluminum radiators in our heat and dry air.  It was 90+ degrees out and I limited rpm’s to 5500 and water temps sat at 90 deg C  and oil was 90 deg C.  So there is hope?

I changed the location of the shifter down an inch and it seems much more comfortable. Can’t wait to try AM74-5 (Falconer bodied) which has the same change.  Change was necessary as the sheet metal plate that holds the front end of the shift rod at the bulkhead was severely cracked  allowing excess movement.

So now into the shop for inspection and getting it ready for some solo work the rest of the year.  Maybe track time if things work out.



Elden Personal Registry

Here is my compilation of Elden’s I have found and communicated with owners, or found in various open forums.  This is a living document and if there are updates, errors, pictures, more info I will gladly include.  I am trying to figure out how to link the many pictures I have of the various cars. So please help me share this info.

Note: Peter Hampsheir maintains the “Official Elden Register”.  I will share info with Peter with your permission.


Updated 4/20/2020

New Elden Register by Me (version 1) (version 1)




Personal Elden Register

Since I bought my first two Elden’s I have taken allot of time to find other Elden owners. past or present.  I have collected that data by personal contact, open forums and referrals.

Peter Hampsheir maintains the Official Elden Registry and works very hard to preserve the history of the marque and wants to ensure no one creates new chassis without his knowledge.  I work hand in hand with Peter to keep track of mainly the US cars and share data with him regularly.

If you want to add info to this Elden Register, please contact through the site.  I will work with you to find the chassis # and correlate known history of the chassis to verify its authenticity in conjunction with Peter.  I would then request permission to add your car to both my personal register and Peter Hampsheir’s “Official Elden Registry”.  No personal data is included in this register and only be released with your permission.

In a few days I will provide a .pdf link to this register on this site after I update data just received.  Look back every so often for updates.


The question has come up on where to find the chassis #.  On most Elden’s it is on the rear bulkhead right side or maybe left.  Here is a picture of my chassis #:

MK10 Farme # annotated

Aligning the Elden FF tools etc.

My shop has a very non-level floor, 3/4″ drop in 8′ in various places  So I built some scale holders that have leveling feet.  Each leveling pad is made up of 1 1/2″ angle iron I had around the shop.  I welded a tube on each corner that is threaded for 3/8″ leveling pad.  One half of the assembly has 3/4″ plywood with 2″ high density foam as a resting pad when you want the car off the scales.  The other half is for the 15″x15″ scale pad which is used for all measurements.

I then laid out on the shop floor the wheelbase/track of the Elden and marked the floor for the leveling pads.  Took a large level and established level on the Left Front Scale Pad and projected that level across the other corners.  Put a small level on each pad and iterated leveling the pad to it’s self and its other pads until all pads are level to themselves and all others.  Marked floor for future use.

One issue I had as I began to use this setup pad was that each pad assembly would move each time the chassis was lifted, the camber change would move the pads sideways.  Also I didn’t have a good point to measure and set the ride height.  So I added a cross brace to the pads and that eliminated lateral movement and reliable place for ride height.  Not gorgeous but cheaper than a full setup pad.





I grew tired of trying to align the Elden’s with the various wheel/tire combinations I have.  So I decided to build my own wheel/hub stands..  Took a 1/2″ plate Al 6061, 3″ Aluminum 6061 angle and 4 casters to build my hub stands.


I drilled various holes to allow the wheel center line to move in 1/2″ increments to simulate the various wheel diameters I may encounter.  The hub stand eliminates the wheel/rim and sets on the scale pads.  This allows setting ride height, castor/camber and toe much easier. On the center line of the hub stand is a 12″ bar I use to establish toe of the wheel.

Another problem I had was trying to locate the chassis center line and setting the track at that center line. Once I found the center line by measuring many different points of the chassis pickup points and using the drawings found earlier.

Elden FF Chasis Drawing

Then made a permanent mark on the top chassis front/rear.  I then took a 6 ft level-attached a 6 ft tape measure on the top of the level, and installed a pointer on the level at 3ft to indicate the center line mark on the chassis.  I then spanned the level across the wheel/hub stands to measure the track.  Using plumb bobs at the end of the level equidistant from the center line, adjusted the a-arms. This is difficult on the front, as the a-arms have a very narrow range to use and I found a pickup point had been bent.  The rear this was much easier to establish.

For more details on how I make this all work please write me a note and I will try to elaborate more.